On the occasion of Diwali (October 31), a Hindu Festival of Lights, Indian and Chinese troops exchanged sweets at several border points along the Line of Actual Control (LAC). In October, an agreement was reached on disengagement of troops and patrolling along the LAC in eastern Ladakh, a breakthrough to end the over four-year stand-off between India and China. The 2020 border clashes between the two neighbors saw rare hand-to-hand combat between the Indian and Chinese soldiers along the LAC. Subsequently, thousands of soldiers were deployed on both sides of the border.
Militarization of the region has had an adverse impact on the semi-nomadic communities such as the Changpa people on the Indian side of the border.
Toiling amid the barren mountains, under the shadow of India-China border tensions, the lives of border residents were divested of peace and any hope for a settlement between the two neighbors. They have lost access to grazing land. The Chinese soldiers have reportedly taken over territories that, until a few years ago, were patrolled by the Indian Armed Forces. These pastures were easily accessed by the Indian farmers in the border region but in the last few years have shrunk dramatically. It remains to be seen whether the recent rapprochement between India and China can ameliorate the lives of the border residents.
Due to its location, Chushul was at the center of the 2020 border conflict. It is a remote village in the Durbuk block of the Changthang region in eastern Ladakh. The LAC with China runs approximately 5 miles east of Chushul. The village is located at an altitude of 14,270 feet, making it one of the highest villages in India. Changthang Plateau is inhabited by the Changpas, a semi-nomadic Tibetan ethnic community that is known for rearing sheep, yaks, horses, and goats for Pashmina.
After August 29-30, 2020 border skirmishes along the LAC, both women and men at Chushul village voluntarily supported the Indian Armed Forces by ferrying water and other essential commodities to the forces deployed at the Black Top mountain. Sonam Angmo, who was president of the Mothers’ Association in Chushul during the 2020 border tensions, said, “After the [August] 29th-30th border skirmishes, several villagers from Chushul – both men and women – including 20 members of the Mothers’ Association ferried essential supplies for the Indian Armed Forces to the Black Top for five to six days voluntarily.”
Changpa Women Since the 1962 War Between India and China
Women’s role in supporting the IAF during the latest clash marked a dramatic change from earlier decades. As she sipped on a hot cup of butter tea served by her daughter, Sonam Angmo said, “During the 1960s, Changpa women were far behind men. Their key roles were cattle-herding, looking after children, weaving nambu [traditional dress] and household chores.”
Similarly, the ex-councillor of Chushul explained, “In the 1960s and ‘70s, women were almost invisible in the society. They were illiterate and not aware of their rights.”
In the context of the 1962 war and the 2020 border conflict between India and China, he said, “Women had no role in the 1962 war. While men from the village would support the army, carrying ration and ammunition to the army base, women were scared even of the silhouettes of the army personnel. During the 2020 border tensions, however, both men and women were actively ferrying essential commodities for the Indian Armed Forces at Black Top.
“Besides, starting at least 15 years ago, more and more girls began going to school. Today, most parents are supportive of their girls’ education. Now, in both the blocks of Changthang – Durbuk and Nyoma – the majority of the women are literate.”
Angmo agreed. “In 1960s and 1970s, overall there was a low literacy rate. In the 1980s and 1990s, there were minuscule positive changes in the level of women’s education,” she said. Several women in the village pointed out that after 2000, particularly in the last 15 years, the educational status of women has improved.
Angmo noted other changes as well: “From the year 2000, women also began working at the army camp – helping to build bunkers, cleaning and other labor work.” The Mothers’ Association, she explained, “was established in 2005 for the upliftment of women in Chushul. It focuses on supporting the economically weaker sections in the village and resolving disputes between couples. It supports religious activities and encourages young females to dress traditionally.”
“Amma [Sonam Angmo] became a member of the Mothers’ Association in 2005 and its president for two years in 2019. She is illiterate but people in the village look up to her due to her experience and wisdom,” explained a young girl from the Changpa community who translated my entire conversation with Angmo.
I asked whether Angmo’s daughters are literate. The young girl replied, “Illiterate herself, Amma realized the importance of education. While her elder daughter, who is married, did not go to school, her younger daughter has completed graduation from Leh [the capital of Ladakh].”
After a few minutes, Angmo’s daughter entered the room with a hot meal of rice and lentils. She spoke about her future plans to pursue post-graduate education from Punjab (one of the states in India).
The Government High School in Chusul extends from nursery school to the 10th grade, with a total of 108 students: 55 boys and 53 girls. The school is completely residential from the 4th to 10th grade, with 89 students (45 boys and 44 girls) in this age range.
All the girls I interacted with, particularly from the 8th to 10th grade, mentioned that both their parents would support them in their future academic endeavors and career pursuits once they complete their schooling in Chushul.
Padma Chuskit, who is in the 9th grade, has five siblings: one brother and four sisters. Her elder sister studied till 10th grade and others are in school. “My parents are very supportive of my education. After school, I want to join a cabin crew,” she said.
Tashi Dolkar has two brothers and four sisters. “One sister is married, another is in the EJM college at Leh, the third one is studying commerce at a college in Chandigarh [Punjab] and the fourth one, who has studied till 7th grade, is a nomad.”
As for her own ambitions, “I want to join the ITBP [Indo-Tibetan Border Police]. My mother is very encouraging,” she said with a smile.